On
exceptionally clear days, Ireland, Northern Ireland,
Scotland,
England and Wales are all visible
from
the Summit of Snowdon, as well as 24 counties,
29 lakes and 17 islands.
A Guide to
The Highest Mountain in Wales at 3,560 ft
Snowdon, the highest
mountain in Wales and the highest British mountain south of the Scottish
Highlands, is "probably the busiest mountain in Britain". It is
located in Snowdonia National Park (Welsh: Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri). The summit
is known as Yr Wyddfa, Welsh for "the tumulus", and lies at an
altitude of 1,085 m (3,560 ft) above sea level.
As the
highest peak in Wales, Snowdon is one of three mountains climbed as part of the
National Three Peaks Challenge. The English name Snowdon comes from the Saxon
"Snow Dun", meaning "snow hill", although the amount of
snow on Snowdon in winter has been decreasing recently, having dropped by more
than 55% since 1994.
Snowdon has
one of the wettest climates in Great Britain, receiving an annual average of
more than 4,500 mm (180 in) of precipitation.
The first
recorded ascent of Snowdon was by the botanist Thomas Johnson in 1639. However,
the 18th-century Welsh historian Thomas Pennant mentions a "triumphal fair
upon this our chief of mountains" following Edward I's conquest of Wales
in 1284, which, if true, indicates the possibility of earlier ascents.
Climbing on
The many
steep cliffs in the Snowdon range are significant in the history of British
rock climbing. The first recorded climb in the area was the 1798 ascent of the
Eastern Terrace of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Welsh: the black cliff of the
dark(ness)) by the Reverends Peter Williams and W. Bingley, botanists looking
for alpine plants. The north face of Y Lliwedd was explored in the late 19th
century and in 1909 was the subject of the first British climbing guide, The
climbs on Lliwedd by J. M. A. Thompson and A. W. Andrews. Also, Edmund Hillary
trained here for his climb up Mount Everest.
Topography
Snowdon has
six ridges. These are steep and rocky to the north and east, shallower and
grassy, but more remote to the south and west. There are many cwms formed by
glaciation in the ice age, some filled with tarns (meltwater lakes). Subsidiary
summits include Garnedd Ugain (1,065 m), the knife-edge summit of Crib
Goch (923 m), Y Lliwedd (898 m) and Yr Aran (747 m).
Snowdon
offers some of the most extensive views in the British Isles; on exceptionally
clear days, Ireland, Northern Ireland, Scotland, England and Wales are all
visible, as well as 24 counties, 29 lakes and 17 islands. It is also possible
to view the newly built Beetham Tower in Manchester from here. The view between
Snowdon and Merrick (southern Scotland) is the longest theoretical line of
sight in the British Isles at 144 miles (232 km).
Routes to the
summit
Marked
footpaths lead to Snowdon's summit from all sides , and can be combined in
various ways. The circular walk starting and ending at Pen-y-Pass and using the
Crib Goch route and the route over Y Lliwedd is called the Snowdon Horseshoe.
The routes are arranged here clockwise, starting with the paths leading from
Pen-y-Pass. During winter, all these routes become significantly more
difficult.
The
southernmost of the paths leading from Pen-y-Pass leads up Y Lliwedd, to the
south of Llyn Llydaw, and from there over Bwlch Ciliau (Welsh: variously pass
of corners/nooks or pass of retreat), where the Snowdon Ranger paths joins with
it, to Snowdon itself. Shortly before the summit, this path merges with the
Rhyd Ddu path. This is one half of the Snowdon Horseshoe, together with the
Crib Goch route (see below). It includes a sharp ridge and requires some
experience of scrambling and a head for heights.
Pyg Track
The Pyg Track
is a popular path leading from the car park at Pen-y-Pass along the lower
slopes of Crib Goch before zig-zagging above the smaller lake Glaslyn to the
col between Snowdon and Garnedd Ugain and thence to the summit of Snowdon.
Regarding the
name of the Pyg Track, the web site of the Snowdonia National Park Authority
states;
"No one is
certain how the Pyg Track came by its name; possibly from Bwlch y Moch (Pigs'
Pass) over which it passes. (It is sometimes spelt Pig Track). "Pyg"
in Welsh also means 'pitch' and may refer to the dull black pitchy appearance
of the path in one location; or it may have been the route used to carry pitch
up to the copper mines. A third possibility is that it was named after the
Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel nearby, by the early climbers who stayed there."
The Crib Goch
route forks off upwards to the right from the Pyg route after roughly a mile
(1.6 km), whilst the Pyg route itself carries straight on, initially
dropping down slightly onto a flatter section of path before the ascent towards
the zig-zags. Some less experienced walkers have been known to get confused at
this point, later finding themselves out of their depth on Crib Goch.
Miners' Track
The Miners'
Track begins at the southern end of the Pen-y-Pass car park. After
approximately 750 m to 1 km, it passes above Llyn Teyrn and then
continues for another kilometre before reaching the shore of Llyn Llydaw. After
crossing Llyn Llydaw and following it around, the track rises more steeply and
eventually leads to Glaslyn (Welsh: blue lake). The final part of the Miners'
Track consists of a scramble from the edge of Glaslyn onto the latter part of
the Pyg track, although recent step-building has improved this considerably.
The combination of ascent via the Pyg track and descent via the Miners' track
is one of the most common ways of combining routes on Snowdon, due to their
sharing a start point at the Pen-y-Pass car park.
Crib Goch
route
The Crib Goch
route also starts at the Pen-y-Pass car park and initially follows the Pyg
track before separating off from it at the Bwlch y Moch and leading up the side
of Crib Goch. From there it follows the ridge of Crib Goch, over the summit of
Garnedd Ugain and on to the summit of Snowdon. This forms half of the Snowdon
Horseshoe route, the other half passing over Y Lliwedd (see above). It includes
a very sharp ridge and requires some experience of scrambling and a head for
heights. It should not be attempted in high winds or rain. In winter it is
classed as a full climb requiring appropriate equipment and skills.
Watkin Path
The Watkin
Path has the greatest change in altitude out of all the paths up Snowdon.
Starting at 60 m above sea level at the Nantgwynant car park (SH628506)
south of Snowdon, and finishing at Snowdon's 1085-metre high summit, the Watkin
Path has a height gain of 1025 m. It follows the course of the Afon Cwm
Llan river, past the Gladstone Rock, before heading up the hillside to Cwm
Ciliau (between Y Lliwedd and Snowdon) and onward to Snowdon. It is also
possible to walk from Nantgwynant to Bwlch Cwm Llan, between Yr Aran and
Snowdon and from there, either down to Rhyd Ddu or along Allt Maenderyn, along
the top of the Clogwyn Du cliff face to meet the Rhyd Ddu path going to the
summit. During the summer, apart from views of the surrounding Welsh
countryside, plenty of tourists take to "cooling down" in the local
waterfalls, part of the way up the path.
Rhyd Ddu Path
The Rhyd Ddu
path leads from the village of Rhyd Ddu to the west of Snowdon, gently up on to
Llechog, a broad ridge to leading west from the summit of Snowdon. This is one
of the easier routes up Snowdon. It is also possible to walk from Rhyd Ddu to
Bwlch Cwm Llan, between Yr Aran and Snowdon and from there, either down to
Nantgwynant, or along Allt Maenderyn, along the top of the Clogwyn Du cliff
face to meet the Rhyd Ddu path going to the summit. All walkers tread carefully
at the last 100 metres or so because of a steep slope with scree. This is the
path, but it is potentially dangerous.
Another
branch, the Beddgelert branch or Pitt's Head path, begins at Pitt's Head on the
A4085 road.
Snowdon
Ranger Path
The Snowdon
Ranger Path is named after an early mountain guide, John Morton, also known as
"the Snowdon Ranger". His former home is now the Snowdon Ranger Youth
Hostel. The path begins on the shores of Llyn Cwellyn, close to the youth
hostel and Snowdon Ranger railway station. The path rises gently to Bwlch Cwm
Brwynog, between Moel Cynghorion and Snowdon, and then along the top of the
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu cliff face to Bwlch Glas between Snowdon and Garnedd Ugain.
Llanberis
Path
The Llanberis
Path leads from Llanberis, approximately along the course of the Snowdon
Mountain Railway. This is one of the longer routes up, although as the slope is
mostly comparatively shallow, it is considered one of the easiest. It is also
the path followed during the annual Snowdon Race (Welsh: Ras Yr Wyddfa). The
first part of the path also leads to the well-known climbing cliff Clogwyn Du'r
Arddu. Refreshments are available in a small café next to the path, about
half-way up the mountain.
For those who
do not wish to or are not able to walk, or wish to walk one way only, the
Snowdon Mountain Railway (a rack railway) runs from Llanberis to the top. A
restaurant and shop can be found at the top station, just below the summit.
Until the
opening of the new Summit Building in spring 2008, the train will terminate at
Clogwyn, weather permitting.
A popular
pastime for Welsh climbers has been to use large smooth stone with notches in
to ride down the rails of the track, often resulting in near misses with the tourist
trains. However this activity has almost stopped since most of the good stones
are now at the bottom of the hill.
Buildings at
the
When the
Snowdon Mountain Railway was opened in 1896, a hotel was built at the terminus,
a short distance from the summit. In the 1930s, this was replaced by a
restaurant designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis. By the end of the twentieth
century, this was run as a café and shop complex (selling, amongst other
things, "I Climbed Snowdon" T-shirts). However it was becoming
increasingly dilapidated and was described by Prince Charles as "the
highest slum in Wales". Its state led to a campaign to replace the
building. In April 2006, Snowdonia National Park Authority agreed a deal to
start work on a new café and visitor centre complex costing £8 million. By
mid-October 2006 the old building had been largely demolished. The new visitor
centre will be erected during 2007 and formally opened in Spring 2008, and will
be named Hafod Eryri
The old
building displayed a slate plaque with the following couplet - "Grwydryn,
aros ennyd; ystyra ryfeddol waith Duw a'th daith fer ar y ddaear hon."
(Wanderer, wait a moment; consider God's wonderous work and your short journey
on this earth.) The Welsh National Poet Gwyn Thomas has composed a new couplet
for the new building - to be displayed at its entrance, and on the windows -
and this will read "Copa'r Wyddfa : yr ydych chwi yma, yn nes at y
nefoedd." (The summit of Snowdon : you are here, nearer to Heaven.)
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